Trowbarrow - Learning to Lead

Laura wanted to lead something a bit harder today so she rigged up a 3-point abseil with a retrievable rope and we placed nuts and cams on abseil.

She then led Coral Sea - VS 4c. A rather polished mid-grade limestone route in the wonderful sun-catching Trowbarrow quarry.

Lead Climbing on Mountain Routes

Richard is back for his 4th summer in the Lakes with his family. Whilst here he takes the opportunity,  after a week, to have some "personal time" to climb with me. We've climbed for a total of 5~6 weekends and explored a lot of different places.
This weekend we visited 5 crags, climbed 22-pitches on routes from Diff to Hard Severe; gathered 17 'quality stars'; did 2 abseils; 'ticked' Classic Rock; had some very nice walking; and it was sunny!

Crossing Ash Tree Ledge

Saturday 14th - we climbed Middlefell Buttress Diff  75m 3-stars on Raven Crag. This route makes a very pleasant warm up ascent towards Gimmer Crag. Whilst it might not be as fast as the plod up the paths it is much more fun.

Richard and Steve Stoat at the bottom of A,B,E etc routes

At Gimmer we climbed Ash Tree Slabs VD+ 48m 3-stars, a lovely route that's in "Classic Rock". Next we headed over to "A" Route HS 75m 3-stars, a climb which finished by the block and chain at the top. A long abseil took us withing inches of Richard's pack on Ash Tree Ledge. We kept out harnesses on for the next short abseil down to the South East face of Gimmer to continue across to the walking path and on down to the car at Old Dungeon Ghyl pub.

Total for the day; 11-pitches of climbing, 9-stars, and 2 abseils

Sunday 15th - after a lot of thought we settled on a mountain day with the minimum of driving/walking time before starting climbing. Our first crag was Upper Scout - Route 1 VD+ 50m 3-stars.

Upper Scout - Richard & lady from Leeds Alpine Club,

Next we headed uphill and across into White Ghyll and The Slabs Route 1 Sev 69m 3-stars. It was so sunny and warm we were glad the route was still in the shade, but we topped out to strong sunlight and a storm of flying ants so thick we soon had them all over us (note to self - shorts aren't great when the insects are flying).

Richard leading on White Ghyll

A dash from the top of White Ghyll and a nice walk took us over to Pavey Ark aiming for Crescent Slabs but we decided the dripping dampness and grass wasn't as appealing as Stoat's Crack HS 112m 2-stars. I climbed SC a few weeks ago and it was wonderfully clean and pleasant, but in the meantime we've had a lot of rain; it was still damp and the soil and vegitation has increased, and to add to that a swarm of midges came out (note about shorts again!). Wildlife should be supported, but I'd prefer they didn't feed off my blood! We dashed for the top where a breeze got rid of the midges and had a very pleasant walk back down to the New Dungeon Ghyll pub.
Total for the day; 11-pitches of climbing, 8-stars, and a nice walk.

More swift climbing

It's been a fantastic weekend of looking at moving efficiently on rock.

The total for our weekend of climbing Diff to VS routes

25 pitches              5 crags

23 "stars"               8 routes

4 abseils

not bad for leasurely starts and being back in the pub before 5pm!

We climbed on Scout Crags; Gimmer; White Ghyll; Pavey Ark and Raven Crag

The list reads like a navigation through the Langdale routes of Classic Rock Climbing in Langdale

The Slabs, Route 1 - 3-stars                     Stoat's Crack - 2-stars

Route 1 (Scout Crag) - 3-star                    Middlefell Buttress - 3-star

"D" Route - 3-star                                Ash Tree Slabs- 3-star

North West Arete- 3-star                           Bracket & Slab- 3-star

So I'm off for an early night and back on the rock on Tuesday - the weather looks excellent for the Lakes this week.

Swift Climbing - Langdale

Today I was out with Nick & Jon, and Chris Ensoll in Langdale where we practiced climbing swiftly and efficiently.

Our first route was a 2-pitch climb, we arrived at the crag to gear up and 50 minutes later were siting at the top with the ropes packed, munching sandwiches.

We then walked to White Ghyll where Jon led Nick & I on a 4-pitch route, completed very efficiently.... we were moving well.

After a leisurely start, leaving the car park around 10am, we'd been to 2 different crags, climbed 2 routes (total 6-pitches) as a  rope of 3, and it was nearly time for lunch before heading off to Pavey Ark

Stoat's Crack is a nice 5 pitche route and it was my turn to lead - Great! Warm rough rock, and soon our rope of 3 was at the top , so we headed up to Pavey's summit, down Jack's Rake and had another lunch sandwich before decending to the pub for an afternoon drink.

Summary - a late morning start and afternoon finish, 11 pitches, 3 crags, a rope of 3, and lots of breaks to chat and eat.

What a fantastic way to enjoy a sunny day!

Climbing Improvers - Snowdonia

Matt and Neil have completed Scrambling, Climbing, and Winter Skills courses with me in the past but only Matt could make it for a 2-day "improvers" climbing session. The aim was to get maximum climbing in different venues, to improve Matt's confidence, gear placement, and ability to lead.

So, 2-days to get lots of climbing done......

We started at Idwal Slabs on Hope - V. Diff. This enabled Matt to get his head and body "warmed up" to climbing, and experience longer routes.

Next we were in the Moelwyns, above Blaenau Ffestiniog with beautiful views and the whistle of the narrow guage steam train passing below. Matt got used to the very different rock, and gear placements on Asahel - Severe. Then he led all 3 pitches of Africa Rib - V Diff.

Matt on the sharp end

Next was Milestone Buttress and Direct Route - V Diff  (WARNING - not easy, very polished, and more akin to many Hard Severe routes). Matt led the fine cracks on pitch 1 and, higher up, the challenging corner chimney.

Then we were off to Dinas Cromlech, the spectacular location of Cenotaph Corner in Llanberis pass, where we alternated leads on Spiral Stairs - V Diff; and Flying Buttress - V Diff.

Climb all these routes and you'll "bag" lots of stars and many routes from the book Classic Rock.

We managed to climb loads of areas and crags, with Matt experiencing a great variety of routes & developing his confidence and leading to much higher level that ever before.

He and Neil will be back in late July for another week-end of climbing.

Kings M

I'm not giving too much information for this wonderful isolated crag.
It's nice limestone, overlooking the river and with a nearby pub for refreshments.
The sandstone base makes for an unusual start to the climbs and scramble back a short distance at the top for tree belays.

We ascended Marik; Steph; Double Jeopardy; and Ivy Crack.

Enjoy it if you find it, navigate to avoid the small nettle patch though!

Single Pitch Rock Climbing, Lake District

Headed off to Long Crag to enjoy the rest of the sun.

 Jane - her first abseil ever.

Paula - she won the "Unusual Noises Award". We wondered if there was going to be a new baby born on the crag.

I should mention in fairness that Paula is "height challenged" and fought very well and completed the climb.

Jane, setting off up a climb, with Nicole checking her knee for grazes.

Rock Climbing on Pavey Ark

The recent dry weather meant Pavey came into condition and many routes were climbed.
Unfortunatelly this morning's rain has probably made the crag damp again.

Photos are of the Stoat's Crak / Rake End Wall area.

Cumbria and Lakes conditions 22~25 April

Frost on the car and blue skies today.

Weather looks good for Thu, Fri, Sat with cool nights and dry days across Cumbria & Snowdonia.

Warmer at the weekend. If you're planning to get out in the Lakes or Wales this weekend then Saturday should be the better day as rain might arrive on Sunday morning.

I'm busy on Saturday - Paula has booked another fun trip. It's wonderful when clients either progress through their climbing/scrambling/navigation, or try different areas and actvities. Over the past 2 years with Paula's family and friends I've;

Taken her husband & friends scrambling & wild camping weekend including Scafell Pike.

Family weekend with their 2 children scrambling & rock climbing, including Crib Goch and Snowdon.

4-day winter skills trip for 5 friends, enjoying winter conditions in the Cairngorms, Aonach Mor, and summitting Ben Nevis.

Supported their charity walk of the Yorkshire 3 Peaks (Ingleborough, Pen y Ghent, Whernside).

Saturday will be another day of adventure with 5 ladies (they've promised to behave.... a little bit) we've planned a ghyl trip followed by a scramble and some short rock climbs. Suncream, water, rock, and great laughs.

I'm Available for Climbing, Scrambling, or Navigation on Sunday

Raven Crag, Langdale the Lake District

A nice dry day today in the Lakes. It was 5 degrees early this morning as I took the dog out for a jog, and 4 degrees at 9pm. Although sunny it remained cool throughout the day; expect a light frost under clear skies tonight .

On Crinkle Crags and Bowfell there are still patches of snow in the gulleys

Made the most of the light and climbed a route above the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub; Odin (VS 4c, 4b), is a pleasantly challenging route located just left of Evening Wall, a classic Severe.

It started to turn chilly at 7pm and an hour later, as we headed down in the decending darkness, we called up to a party on Pluto, a fantastic HVS 5a (but not a route to climb in the dark!) and saw another party on Middlefell Buttress, a Diff with lots of big stances which make it a great route for instructing, learning to lead, practicing route navigation, and placing climbing protection.

There's a strong half-moon tonight and the climbers should all be in the pub cuddling a beer by now.

Looking towards Ambleside and over the fells

Borrowdale - Black Crag - The Shroud (VS) & something dirty & green!

Troutdale Pinnacle

A dry but but chilly forecast, following some dry & warm days in the Lakes, means drainage lines should be dry, but head for low down crags until it gets warmer again.

We arrived at Black Crag before 9.00 to find a party high up on the crag and another pair at the bottom who shouted "Hey is that Roger"... It was Henry who'd been in Tien Shan with me a couple of years ago (see old Blog).

AVOID - Gleaned Grooves(VS) on the right of the crag (and Holly Tree Corner) as it's very mucky. We  were forced to join the crowds on Troutdale Pinnicle by the incredible amount of moss and dirt - a route for plant enthusiasts.
Next I led Steve up The Shroud - a recommended route.

Henry - belayed on the penultimate stance - Troutdale Pinnacle

Tom about to step across & up - Troutdale Pinnacle

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

1. The Shroud, VS 4b, 4c, 4c is very good, the upper 2 pitches haven't seen a lot of ascents but you can string pitches together into 2 long ones (bring lots of extenders).

2. Troutdale Pinnacle, S (but not recommended as a first Severe lead, it needs an awareness of protecting traverses and has some invigorating moves).

Evening Rock Climbing in the Lakes

If you've been driving on the M6 Junction 36 (South Lakes turning) and wondered what the craggy hill is just to the East, it's Farlton Fell, a popular place for Paraponting (that's a scary sport!), Mountain Biking, short Walks, and Rock Climbing.

The steep and obvious "nose" in the col, and visible from the car, contains "Rose Amongst Thorns" VS 4b and Avoidance HS 4a - these were our routes tonight.

  

If you're on Farlton it's well worth walking to the top and a few hundred meters North for spectacular views down onto the roads, across to the Lakes, across the sea and Morecambe Bay to Barrow and to the Yorkshire National Park peaks of Ingleborough etc, fantastic!

Climbing on Gimmer in Langdale

Fantastic weather in the Lakes, the snow & ice climbing has gone from Cumbria and the rock climbing season has arrived, but there are still patches of snow in the gullys making for fantastic views.

Steve and I headed up to Gimmer to climb multi pitch routes to the left of the Cracks (mentioned in Classic Rock), followed by Ash Tree Slabs Direct, a nice VS 4b taking a direct route up the slab.

We met up with Mark, an instructor from Scotland, who climbed 3 classic Gimmer routes with a client from Climb 365 .

The weather looks good for the rest of the week, possibly turning cooler but staying dry. Maybe an opportunity to climb winter routes on Ben Nevis and rock routes in the valleys?

Snowdonia Rock Climbing - Tremadog

Above the climber is on and E4 to the right of Merlin, a superb HVS climb. We were heading rightwards on the slabs to experince a sunny Severe with nice friendly belay stances!

Tremadog is a superb and easily accessable climbing venue. There's a cafe and car park within 2 minutes of the crag where non-climbers (and relaxing climbers) can enjoy a snack or meal.

There are a huge number of climbs here, almost all of them enjoy fantastic views out over the fields to the sea, and Tremadog is well known for often being dry and sunny when it's wet and cold everywhere else.

There is also a hidden "Upper Tier" - a good beginners and group climbing venue.

Snowdonia Rock Climbing (?) Idwal Slabs

The views driving up into Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia, were almost Alpine.

It was much warmer than it looked and we headed up to Idwal Slabs where we practiced placing rock climbing leading gear and retreavable abseil retreats.

Yes, there was snow at the bottom of the route and it snowed whilst we were climbing but Laura was warm and comfortable. She almost seemed dissapointed at the suggestion to "retire" for a warm drink and cake.

Rock Climbing in the Lakes

Great weather in the Lakes, with plenty of blue skies in the morning, blankets of snowdrops at low levels, and snow on the tops.

Picture is of Crinkle Crags in Greater Langdale.

Perfect weather for (early morning) Ice Climbing followed by some Scrambling, and then Rock Climbing in the early afternoon sun.

Laura is including Rock Climbing in her selection of sports for PE A-level & AS exams so we headed out to develop and practice climbing techniques, and climb a route in Langdale

A well earned rest .