Borrowdale - Shepherds Crag, 10-stars

Climbed this evening with Kendal Mountaineering Club at Shepherds
No photos as I forgot my camera but climber but climbed

Fisher's Folly VS 4c 3*

Creeping Jesus HVS 5a 2*

but not The Grasp E1 5b 2*

Adam VS 4c, 5a 3*

Failed on The Grasp, with a fall and the top gear pinging out. Fortunatelly tyhat part of the route is steep so I didn't touch rock on the fall.

Helvellyn by Striding Edge

Striding Edge on Helvellyn is a 3-star Grade 1 scramble which concludes near this popular summit. A good combination is to link it with a descent of Swirral Edge.

The weather was good, and England was playing today in theWorld Cup (don't mention the result!) so today it was nice and quiet , there was even enough space to sit in the shelter to eat sandwiches.

               The awkward step (see the man on the Right for a good decent)                      Walking along the ridge

Scafell Pike

Wow! Thousands of people on Scafell today - being one of the longer days in the year the 3-Peak challenge (Ben Nevis, Scafell, Snowdon) groups were out in force, the roads were packed with minibuses, and a long line of peole was heading up and down the paths.

Central Buttress 122m E1  4b,5b,4c,5a 3*

Botterill's Slab 87m VS 4b, 4c 3*

 

Black Crag, Rhino's

Went to Black Crag this evening.

This single pitch crag dries fast and is easily accessed from the 3-Shires Stones area where there's parking for a handful of cars.
Good is; access, reduced "midge" (due to breezes), high friction rock, and cool when the weather's too hot.
Avoid it when it's windy, when clouds are low, and when it's cold. Great for a summer's evening.

Evening Climbing on Gimmer (12 * stars)

Dashed around to Old Dungeon Ghyl and Gimmer this evening to climb 4 three-star routes. ;

Whit's End Direct E1 5B

We walked up to Raven Crag to scramble up our first route to get us high before traversing around to Gimmer.

Middlefell Buttress 75m Diff 3*

Bracket & Slab (direct start) 97m 4b (1st pitch) 3*

Whit's End Direct 43m E1 5b 3*

"F" Route 40m VS 4c 3*

Abseiling down to Ash Tree Ledge                                                                        Days end

More swift climbing

It's been a fantastic weekend of looking at moving efficiently on rock.

The total for our weekend of climbing Diff to VS routes

25 pitches              5 crags

23 "stars"               8 routes

4 abseils

not bad for leasurely starts and being back in the pub before 5pm!

We climbed on Scout Crags; Gimmer; White Ghyll; Pavey Ark and Raven Crag

The list reads like a navigation through the Langdale routes of Classic Rock Climbing in Langdale

The Slabs, Route 1 - 3-stars                     Stoat's Crack - 2-stars

Route 1 (Scout Crag) - 3-star                    Middlefell Buttress - 3-star

"D" Route - 3-star                                Ash Tree Slabs- 3-star

North West Arete- 3-star                           Bracket & Slab- 3-star

So I'm off for an early night and back on the rock on Tuesday - the weather looks excellent for the Lakes this week.

Swift Climbing - Langdale

Today I was out with Nick & Jon, and Chris Ensoll in Langdale where we practiced climbing swiftly and efficiently.

Our first route was a 2-pitch climb, we arrived at the crag to gear up and 50 minutes later were siting at the top with the ropes packed, munching sandwiches.

We then walked to White Ghyll where Jon led Nick & I on a 4-pitch route, completed very efficiently.... we were moving well.

After a leisurely start, leaving the car park around 10am, we'd been to 2 different crags, climbed 2 routes (total 6-pitches) as a  rope of 3, and it was nearly time for lunch before heading off to Pavey Ark

Stoat's Crack is a nice 5 pitche route and it was my turn to lead - Great! Warm rough rock, and soon our rope of 3 was at the top , so we headed up to Pavey's summit, down Jack's Rake and had another lunch sandwich before decending to the pub for an afternoon drink.

Summary - a late morning start and afternoon finish, 11 pitches, 3 crags, a rope of 3, and lots of breaks to chat and eat.

What a fantastic way to enjoy a sunny day!

Lakes Scrambles

Four linked scrambles today, checking them out for future adventures.

I started with a wonderful exploration of a deep ghyl at Grade 1;

then onto the open fell and an outstanding Grade 3 on rough rock, finishing near a sumit before walking across and down a scree shute - where I was very surprised to find a very square cave, fantastic place for a lunch break on a damp day. Then I followes a sheep track to what i thought would be a remote and hard to find scramble. As i stepped over teh final heather to the start of the rocky ridge I almost stepped on a sleeping scrambler - the first I'd seen on rock today, and the most remote place too!

He suggested another route in the same area so after summiytting I was off for the 4th scramble of the day. A wonderfull link-up of routes

Grade 1 - ghyl

Grade 2/3 - open rock face to summit

Grade 3+ to another summit

Grade 3

Then down for a pint!

On the way I saw loads of our carniverous plants - shown are Sundew and Liverwort - plants that "catch" and digest insects.

Climbing Improvers - Snowdonia

Matt and Neil have completed Scrambling, Climbing, and Winter Skills courses with me in the past but only Matt could make it for a 2-day "improvers" climbing session. The aim was to get maximum climbing in different venues, to improve Matt's confidence, gear placement, and ability to lead.

So, 2-days to get lots of climbing done......

We started at Idwal Slabs on Hope - V. Diff. This enabled Matt to get his head and body "warmed up" to climbing, and experience longer routes.

Next we were in the Moelwyns, above Blaenau Ffestiniog with beautiful views and the whistle of the narrow guage steam train passing below. Matt got used to the very different rock, and gear placements on Asahel - Severe. Then he led all 3 pitches of Africa Rib - V Diff.

Matt on the sharp end

Next was Milestone Buttress and Direct Route - V Diff  (WARNING - not easy, very polished, and more akin to many Hard Severe routes). Matt led the fine cracks on pitch 1 and, higher up, the challenging corner chimney.

Then we were off to Dinas Cromlech, the spectacular location of Cenotaph Corner in Llanberis pass, where we alternated leads on Spiral Stairs - V Diff; and Flying Buttress - V Diff.

Climb all these routes and you'll "bag" lots of stars and many routes from the book Classic Rock.

We managed to climb loads of areas and crags, with Matt experiencing a great variety of routes & developing his confidence and leading to much higher level that ever before.

He and Neil will be back in late July for another week-end of climbing.

Scrambling Expedition

Back out today with Dave & Nigel, we headed up to Borrowdale (after finding the early morning cafe in Keswick) with the intentio of getting maximum scrambling variety and distance; increasing the practice of yesterdays skills.

Dovesnest Crag is vey atmospheric and a place with lots of variety. But read the guidebook carefully, it is not a place to go wrong on.
Our first ascent took us through steep climbing ground by an intricate route, next we headed up the side and then on and over the grassy ridge to drop down to the base on Cam Crag Ridge in the next valley. This is a wonderful ridge with a variety of grades up it. We headed up and then followed the hillocky ridge back down past a group climbing on Glaciated Slabs. A long but very full day.

Grade 3 Scrambling on St Sunday Crag

We headed up Pinnacle Ridge today, it's a fantastic scramble. Dave & Nigel practiced finding the route in the guide book and we did some brief revision of scrambling rope work before heading up the route. As predicted the weather changed in teh early afternoon and it snowed! There was sufficient grauple for it to build up on backpacks but everyone enjoyed the day, with me stepping into the lead whenever concerns were raised.

I've been late with blogs but will try to add photos and more later.

Day out with European Media writers

Today I joined with Andy Cave to take a group of media writers up Stickyle Ghyl and towards Pavey Ark. They were visiting the Lakes to write about environmental issues and the Lake district.
Weather was typically "Lakes" whilst they were here and immediatelly returned to clear skies when they left!

We scrambled up the ghyl and admired the views.

Cumbria & Lakes conditions 1-3 May holiday

Saturday 1st - expect it to be wet and cool
Sunday 2nd - a better day as high pressure moves in, winds may be coming from the North - expect a dry, cool day with gentle winds - a good day to get out
Monday 3rd - probably similar to Sunday

Hope you have a great long-weekend.
I'll be working Sat & Sun on an advanced scrambling course.

I've been out climbing in NE Cumbria and also with media people today - but more later when I can download the pictures.

Kings M

I'm not giving too much information for this wonderful isolated crag.
It's nice limestone, overlooking the river and with a nearby pub for refreshments.
The sandstone base makes for an unusual start to the climbs and scramble back a short distance at the top for tree belays.

We ascended Marik; Steph; Double Jeopardy; and Ivy Crack.

Enjoy it if you find it, navigate to avoid the small nettle patch though!

Single Pitch Rock Climbing, Lake District

Headed off to Long Crag to enjoy the rest of the sun.

 Jane - her first abseil ever.

Paula - she won the "Unusual Noises Award". We wondered if there was going to be a new baby born on the crag.

I should mention in fairness that Paula is "height challenged" and fought very well and completed the climb.

Jane, setting off up a climb, with Nicole checking her knee for grazes.

Rock Climbing on Pavey Ark

The recent dry weather meant Pavey came into condition and many routes were climbed.
Unfortunatelly this morning's rain has probably made the crag damp again.

Photos are of the Stoat's Crak / Rake End Wall area.

Scrambling in South Lakes

Glorious day out with Paula, Sue, Jane, Nicole and Sarah. We started the day scrambling up a ghyl near to where they camped overnight. The riverbed was dryer than I've seen it before which allowed us to ascend water shutes and explore areas I've not been to before.

A bit of ropework for extra confidence & security allowed everyone to climb some challenging ground.

Next we headed off to Jack's Rake, a fantastic (and popular) scramble up and across the large face of Pavey Ark

On the way back down to the Sticklebarn pub for a well earned drink we slid through a dog-gate (well, almost all of us!). For a laugh(?)

Cumbria and Lakes conditions 22~25 April

Frost on the car and blue skies today.

Weather looks good for Thu, Fri, Sat with cool nights and dry days across Cumbria & Snowdonia.

Warmer at the weekend. If you're planning to get out in the Lakes or Wales this weekend then Saturday should be the better day as rain might arrive on Sunday morning.

I'm busy on Saturday - Paula has booked another fun trip. It's wonderful when clients either progress through their climbing/scrambling/navigation, or try different areas and actvities. Over the past 2 years with Paula's family and friends I've;

Taken her husband & friends scrambling & wild camping weekend including Scafell Pike.

Family weekend with their 2 children scrambling & rock climbing, including Crib Goch and Snowdon.

4-day winter skills trip for 5 friends, enjoying winter conditions in the Cairngorms, Aonach Mor, and summitting Ben Nevis.

Supported their charity walk of the Yorkshire 3 Peaks (Ingleborough, Pen y Ghent, Whernside).

Saturday will be another day of adventure with 5 ladies (they've promised to behave.... a little bit) we've planned a ghyl trip followed by a scramble and some short rock climbs. Suncream, water, rock, and great laughs.

I'm Available for Climbing, Scrambling, or Navigation on Sunday

Raven Crag, Langdale the Lake District

A nice dry day today in the Lakes. It was 5 degrees early this morning as I took the dog out for a jog, and 4 degrees at 9pm. Although sunny it remained cool throughout the day; expect a light frost under clear skies tonight .

On Crinkle Crags and Bowfell there are still patches of snow in the gulleys

Made the most of the light and climbed a route above the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub; Odin (VS 4c, 4b), is a pleasantly challenging route located just left of Evening Wall, a classic Severe.

It started to turn chilly at 7pm and an hour later, as we headed down in the decending darkness, we called up to a party on Pluto, a fantastic HVS 5a (but not a route to climb in the dark!) and saw another party on Middlefell Buttress, a Diff with lots of big stances which make it a great route for instructing, learning to lead, practicing route navigation, and placing climbing protection.

There's a strong half-moon tonight and the climbers should all be in the pub cuddling a beer by now.

Looking towards Ambleside and over the fells

Climbing & Scrambling conditions - LAKES

This is a guide only, please use your own judgement when selecting places to go and routes to do.
Should be some good rock climbing this week. 
PAST; cold winter will have opened up some cracks, beware loose rock especially early season. Some climbs are still a bit dusty/dirty from past water run-offs.
RECENT; weather has been good for a while now so most of the  rock is dry.
PREDICTION; expecting a dry week, with nice temperatures mid-day and little wind. Temperatures will drop noticeably in the evening. It's dark at 8.30pm
LOCATIONS;
NORTH / CENTRAL Multi Pitch - Castle Rock of Triermain good afternoon crag. Easy routes on South Crag can be tricky to arrange protection.
SOUTH Single Pitch - Trowbarrow is an evening sun-trap with great climbs. It's becoming polished, BEWARE as section "Main Wall" may have loosened in the cold winter. Views from the cliff-top are superb.

 Hope you get to visit these places & have a great season. If you want instruction (Lakes, Snowdonia, Scotland) please get in touch. Courses & dates are tailor made for you.
Roger C